The Rant

September 1, 2003

The Rant Archive


- The Accidental Hermit
- Winter Woes and Antidotes
- Study War No More
- Restaurant Disasters
- Our Better Angels
- Karaoke Karl
- Summers Past

 

Dear Reader, here is what Karl did on his summer vacation... I flew west via Air Canada (not that I had much choice) and saw with my own eyes the city that doubled as Metropolis in the movie Superman III...Edmonton, Alberta. I'm sure other movies have been made there but the fact that my favorite super hero once fought the forces of evil in this western Canadian city impressed me no end. I'm not surprised it was picked as a sub for Metropolis. You see, it has plenty of towering buildings owned by large companies like Epcor and banks like Scotiabank. Superman is much more impressive flying between thirty story buildings than over five or ten story ones. However, Edmonton has much more to offer than tall buildings.

Edmonton's skyline

I was very impressed with how clean it is, one of the most tidy cities it's been my privilege to visit. I really don't know how they manage it. Edmonton has a population of almost a million. It's very busy and yet, hardly any litter. There is plenty of traffic, although, no more than you'd expect; and as far as public transport is concerned, they're well fixed. You have a very efficient bus service as well as an LRT or light rapid transit system to choose from. My first bus trip (an express service no less) was to that mecca for consumers, the West Edmonton Mall.

Karl at the mall

The 'mall', as they call it, is impressive. It certainly is one of the largest malls, if not THE largest mall in the world. You've probably all heard of the ice rink, the swimming complex, the dolphin show, the IMAX, the hotel and so on. But here are a couple of lesser known features that stood out to me... First, I was wandering by one of the entrances to the swimming area and I saw an arrangement of tables with flip-up tops that looked like tanning beds. Turns out they were water massage tables. You get on them (face down), they put the top down, and then the most wonderful thing happens. A wave of warm water contained inside a heavy plastic sack covering your body, begins to roll over you. It starts at your feet and gradually spreads all the way to your shoulders. It has a pulsing action that slowly but surely begins to release all the tension in your tired, aching muscles. (Geez, this is sounding like an infomercial.) Anyway, you get the idea. I paid something like twenty bucks for about ten minutes. It was worth every penny.


The next thing I saw that made an impression was the supermarket in the Chinatown area of the mall. I think this section may be a new addition. It's a standard size supermarket with just about every thing a person preparing oriental cuisine would need by way of ingredients (fresh, canned, packaged, and frozen). They also serve readymade meals (hot and cold). But the freshest of the fresh foods was to be found in the seafood section. Here I saw what looked like something from Jules Verne's, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, perhaps Captain Nemo's larder aboard the Nautilus. There were several large glass tanks filled with bubbling water that contained live fish and other sea creatures.

Live tilapia fish and other species at mall market

I saw things like live tilapia fish, carp, and savoury clams. All you had to do was pick your fish and take it home. You can't get any fresher than that! (By the way, recently the PETA organization began a campaign to get people in this province to stop catching and eating fish. If what we do is considered by them to be unethical, what about what's happening in all these live food markets around the world? And how about this - one third of the world's population depend on fish for protein. If everyone stopped fishing, how would we solve that problem? Any bright ideas PETA?

Before leaving the mall I took in a dandy movie at the IMAX theatre. It's called Ghosts of the Abyss, a 3D documentary by master movie maker, James Cameron. I developed a liking for the movie immediately because the first scene features shots of my hometown, good old St. John's, Newfoundland (well, the harbour anyway) as host/ narrator, Bill Paxton boards the research vessel that will take him and the rest of Cameron's crew to the wreck of the Titanic. The images in this film are amazing and the 3D effect really does make it seem like you're there with them. It was my first time wearing 3D glasses. It was a wonderful treat. I was so impressed I wanted to see the movie again but time didn't permit.



Ghosts of the Abyss reminded me of a funny story. Several months ago a nice young woman came up to me at a cocktail party. She was carrying a camera and a can of Spam. Yes, Spam, that delicious nitrate laden meat guaranteed to last a millenium. Before I knew it I was holding the Spam next to my face and the young woman was taking my picture. Here's why...She had worked with James Cameron on Ghosts of the Abyss and, as a joke, they took her can of Spam down to the Titanic with them.

Cameron and Paxton in Ghosts of the Abyss

There's actually a notation on the can to indicate that it is a very special can of Spam (you know, 'first' to Titanic and all that). Ever since, she has been taking pictures of people holding her can of Spam. People like Cameron and crew, and now, people like me. Her portfolio of these Spam pictures is expanding like...well, spam (the other kind). One of these days she plans to do something with them but, to date, has no idea what.

Thank goodness there was no need for Spam lunches in Edmonton. As a matter of fact, I was quite impressed with most of the restaurants I visited while there. One of the nice ones is a Greek spot on Whyte Avenue called Yiannis Taverna Restaurant. The moussaka was bursting with all sorts of wonderful flavours and the server was super friendly and efficient. An added bonus was being able to dine partially outdoors since they take the restaurant's big front windows out in the summertime. And Whyte Avenue, located in the city's south end and running through the Strathcona district is a great place for people watching. Tourists and locals stroll up and down the broad sidewalks of this beautiful old neighbourhood window shopping or occasionally stopping to buy something in one of the many boutiques along the way. These days most cities seem to have rejuvenated older districts like this, and, for my money, Whyte Avenue is one of the more interesting visits in Edmonton.

Relaxed dining on Whyte Avenue

Another interesting visit is the Alberta legislative building which houses the Premier's office, Lieutenant Governor's office, and, obviously, the Alberta Legislative Assembly Chamber. I was very impressed by the tours they offer of this building. A college student conducted the day I visited and he knew his stuff. He began in the large rotunda explaining that the great marble supporting pillars (Quebec marble) weighed about the same as a small herd of elephants. A few of the plethora of facts he spewed out stuck in my head. For example, the mace first used was a homemade job. Apparently the need for a mace was overlooked by planners until the last minute. In a rush somebody cobbled a temporary one together using found materials. The intention was to use it for a few months only. The round top is actually a bulb from a toilet flushbox! However, it works. Once the whole concoction was painted a uniform silver it looked as good as any other mace (mind you, I'm not a connoisseur in these matters). The funny thing is they ended up using this so-called 'temporary' mace for about thirty years. The current one is nice but the old one (prominantly displayed in a glass case) is outstanding for its creativity, a real work of art.

Secluded palms of Alberta Parliament Building

Housed in the great dome above the rotunda is the palm room. We weren't allowed up there but you can look skyward to the rotunda dome and see palm leaves hanging over the railings that encircle the open centre of the room. Many years ago the palm trees were a gift to the people of Alberta and, somewhat sadly, have been kept up there ever since, away from most of the people of Alberta. However, if you do want to see some tropical trees and plants and all sorts of other flora you won't have far to go.

The Muttart Conservatory is one of Edmonton's treasures and a 'must-see' for any gardening enthusiast. It is located in the city's centre in the North Saskatchewan River Valley and mainly consists of four giant glass pyramid greenhouses. Each one features a different type of plant life. They have an Arid Pyramid which I found to be one of the most interesting, probably because I've never visited an arid part of the world. I like plants that look exotic and rare, and the Arid Pyramid had plenty to satisfy my interest. There is also a Tropical Pyramid, a Temperate Pyramid, and a fourth called the Show Pyramid. The idea of the Show Pyramid is to run different displays of mostly flowering plants about eight times a year.

Muttart's Arid Pyramid

When I visited I was delighted to see some fun topiary. Amongst the floweringplants they had placed some topiary ladies, southern belles carrying summer umbrellas and wearing wide brimmed hats. I was expecting to see a blushing Scarlett O'Hara any second. The conservatory features over seven hundred species of plants, so don't expect to see everything in one trip.

On my last night in Edmonton I decided to treat myself to some fine dining, as well as a fine view. I made a reservation at Edmonton's only revolving restaurant, La Ronde, a room of understated elegance atop the Crowne Plaza Chateau Lacombe. I love revolving restaurants (every city should have one) and I probably would have gone even if I'd suspected the food wasn't that good. However, La Ronde was a great experience all round (ahem...excuse the pun). By the way, it takes about ninety minutes to make the ROUND trip!

North Saskatchewan River as seen from La Ronde

Not only was I treated to a fabulous view of Edmonton, especially the North Saskatchewan River that lazily meanders through the city, but I enjoyed a beautiful meal of prime Alberta elk. The elk steak was dark and tender and quietly gamey, served with some grilled vegetables. It went very well with my glass of merlot. As is often my custom, I finished off with a chocolate dessert, a decadent, rich ganache cake with fresh whipped cream. It was a nice way to end my visit to a western city that does not usually get much recognition, at least not the kind it deserves. As I sat enjoying a cup of La Ronde's perfectly brewed java watching the sun set over the Alberta capital, I said to myself, "Yes. I'd be pleased to live here. Edmonton is a fine city".

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

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