Dining Out

Karl Wells

 

Lighthouse Picnics

Ferryland Lighthouse

Ph. 709-363-7456

 

What a wonderful afternoon I have just spent. The trip down the southern shore highway was longer than normal because of some road upgrading underway, but the sun was out, the sky was blue and the southern shore was looking smartly turned out for a summer's afternoon. We were on our way to Ferryland, not to see the famous historic site there but rather to enjoy a luncheon al fresco on the grounds of the famous - and old - Ferryland lighthouse.

 

The lighthouse has been run for the past four years by a couple of very charming young entrepreneurs named Jill Curran and Sonia O'Keefe. Jill was raised in Ferryland. As a matter of fact, her grandmother's family, the Costellos, lived in and ran the lighthouse from 1870 to 1970. After that it became a residence and studio for artist Gerald Squires and his family. However, up until four years ago, the lighthouse had been vacant and left to deteriorate for twenty years until Jill and Sonia started a business there called Lighthouse Picnics.

 

Sonia O'Keefe came originally from the Burin peninsula community of Lawn. Several years ago, spurred on by an interest in organically grown vegetables and unprocessed food she enrolled in an intensive three month cooking course at the Ballymaloe Cooking School in Ireland, run by the doyen of Irish cookery, Darina Allen. Allen has a passion for organically grown food. Upon returning to Newfoundland Sonia reconnected with her good friend Jill Curran and as Jill tells it, "Sonia was cooking these four course meals and inviting me over and her food was so good I figured, I'm either going to have to get this woman to move in with me or go into some kind of business with her."  

 

And so they developed the idea to convert the old Ferryland lighthouse into a kitchen with small “bad weather” inside eating area, for a business that would essentially serve picnic lunches to people in the mood for an outdoor feast on a blanket overlooking gorgeous rugged scenery of ocean, cliffs, rock, bushes and grass. As I mentioned, when the weather turns bad you can eat inside. The interior of the place is looking better all the time, as they have been determinedly renovating - when they can afford it.

 

I arrived with a few friends after our pleasant drive at about one o'clock on a Friday afternoon. We were required to park our vehicle in a makeshift parking area located about a fifteen-minute walk from the actual lighthouse. There was a narrow, steep strip of land with water on either side that led to the light and the picnic grounds. It was a welcome opportunity to stretch our legs after our car trip from St. John's.

 

Once at the lighthouse we placed our orders. They offered three set picnic menus. One featured a Brie sandwich with salad and dessert, the second a curried chicken sandwich with salad and dessert and the third featured a pasta bowl with fresh pesto, as well as fruit salad and dessert. We ended up ordering all of them. Some of the desserts like coconut cheese muffins and freshly made fruit and nut bars were on display at the check-in counter. They made my mouth water. Fortunately between all of the group we ordered every dessert available, so I knew I'd get to taste them all if I played my cards right.

 

We were given blankets, one per couple, and were then free to pick our pied a terre for our picnic outside among the beautiful, rugged surroundings on lighthouse point. The blankets had been specially made of a heavy fabric with tartan print and vinyl, easy-to-clean bottoms. A small flag was also provided. You stick them in the ground next to your blanket so that the servers will know which group you are for serving purposes.

 

After a short time taking in the splendid scenery our servers arrived with two picnic hampers containing a variety of scrumptious looking goodies. It's also possible to order individual menu items so we had a few of those included as well. For example we each got to sample one of Lighthouse Picnics crab cakes. Wow! Believe me, they were without a doubt the best crab cakes I have ever tasted. All were beautifully thick - twice as thick as any I've eaten - crunchy, golden on the outside and brimming with sweet, succulent fresh crabmeat.

 

The pasta bowl with pesto featured spaghetti topped with slices of shaved Parmesan. The pesto, a combination of rich virgin olive oil, fresh local basil - from Michael Rabinovitch’s organic farm - and garlic hugged each of the strands of al dente pasta. It was a perfect combination of classic flavours. A salad of mixed organic greens coated with a mild vinaigrette had much the same affect, even though the salted pistachios thrown on top needed to be shelled. It made for an interesting two-part eating experience as I first shelled my pistachios and ate them, and then greedily devoured forkfuls of salad leaves. It was a picnic after all and on a picnic people need to relax and really get stuck into their food.

 

All of the breads at Lighthouse Picnics are made daily on site. I peeked in, as they were being brought out of the kitchen and found the aroma of the beautiful, large loaves of foccacia and whole wheat bread to be intoxicating. It was like smelling the most wonderful perfume. Needless to say these breads made fabulous sandwiches. I tried a curried chicken salad on whole wheat made from fresh roasted chicken in a creamy but lightly seasoned curry dressing. It was a standard pedestrian curry spice but the whole assembly made a delicious sandwich.

 

Two people in our group really enjoyed - or perhaps I should say raved to the hilltops about - the foccacia sandwiches filled with super creamy Brie, along with a slice of granny smith apple to add some tasty tartness to the affair. Those sandwiches looked almost as good as the waiting desserts, a chocolate ganache cake that was sinfully rich, a simple white layer cake - made from scratch - that was vanilla-laced ambrosia, a refreshing fruit salad of watermelon, cantaloupe, grapes and so forth and finally a yummy fun food, coconut cream muffin. Oh, and I mustn’t forget a fabulous fruit and nut bar, a combination of various sticky fruits - like dried apricots - and nuts that had been mixed together, pressed into a cooking sheet and baked. Could anything possibly be better for you or as tasty?

 

Our beverage for the picnic was lemonade made from fresh lemons and served in preserves jars. The lemonade was very good, although some might find it to be a little sweet. Once you've had lemonade made from scratch with fresh lemons you'll never be able to have anything else. Speaking of beverages, the fresh filtered coffee they served us from thermos bottles at the end was aromatic and oozing lovely roasted coffee flavour. 

 

Lighthouse Picnics will be serving picnics until October. After that Jill Curran and Sonia O’Keefe will be arranging a program of fall events, including u-pick berry picking that will include a session of do-it-yourself baking using your freshly picked berries. As Jill remarked, "You need to be inventive when you’re operating a business in the fall of the year out of a lighthouse in Ferryland!"

 

If you're looking for a casual dining experience that will impress your visitors or if you and a friend or sweetheart are looking for a dining experience that's more than memorable I highly recommend Lighthouse Picnics at Ferryland.

 

The cost of a picnic for two at Ferryland’s Lighthouse Picnics - including coffee - was $41.04.

 

Best Points:

Total dedication to customers’ enjoyment.

 

Areas for Improvement:

A second restroom is needed to avoid frustrating line-ups.

 

Ratings Category:

Lighthouse Picnics gets 9 out of 10 points.

 

7 points = satisfactory, 7.5 points = good, 8 points = very good, 9 points = excellent, 10 points = perfection