Dining Out

Karl Wells

 

Hong Kong Restaurant

361 Water Street

Ph. 753-8838

 

I am a Chinese food addict. There, I’ve said it. As a matter of fact, when I started writing Dining Out I had to exercise extreme self-discipline to restrain myself from writing back-to-back reviews on every Chinese restaurant in St. John’s. It would not have been a good idea for you, The Telegram or my waistline. Instead I opted for the sneaky approach, slipping one in every couple of months. The other day I succumbed to my cravings again and headed down to the Hong Kong Restaurant on Water St. for a take-out fix.

 

A half dozen family members - fellow addicts - showed up at my house wanting to be fed. I had not ordered food from the Hong Kong Restaurant for a while. The set “dinner for eight” seemed like a good deal. It featured ten dishes for only $87.50. I arrived at the Water St. west restaurant with the bright yellow awnings and red brick and aluminum siding façade a little before suppertime.

 

Inside as I expected, given the time, there was just one table with diners. They were enjoying food - piled high on their plates - from a buffet station along the wall. It was loaded up with several different dishes, all issuing calling card clouds of white steam. The food looked so good I had an impulse to pull up a chair and tuck right in.

 

The room was spacious, long and narrow featuring plenty of green or shades of and several round tables with black coloured tubular metal chairs. The walls were decorated with traditional pictures of Chinese images and scenes. A feng shui master would have approved of the placement of an aquarium close to the entrance in a north corner. Apparently an aquarium filled with goldfish increases the energy of a room. That helps bring more customers to the restaurant, which, in turn, increases revenue. After staring at the lucky goldfish for a few minutes I looked up to see an employee bringing a boxful of carefully packed brown paper bags from the back of the restaurant. My heart fluttered. In no time I was unpacking the same bags in my kitchen. 

 

The Hong Kong Restaurant’s dinner for eight began with won ton soup. The word won ton means “swallowing a cloud.” That’s what the little won ton dumplings floating around in the soup are supposed to look like. It’s a good description. I loved the soup. The broth had lots of fresh chicken flavour. Additional taste came from bits of chopped scallion and a few slices of barbecued pork. The delicate won tons were filled with delicious ground pork.

 

The egg rolls, like the battered chicken balls - that came with sweet and sour and pineapple sauces - were pretty much the standard fare found in most Chinese restaurants. However, the honey garlic spareribs were not quite what I had anticipated. I was expecting glossy, very dark, sticky ribs with roasted flavour, the kind you have to pry apart from one another because they’re so stuck with honey. The Hong Kong Restaurant’s ribs were grey and not sticky at all. They were tender with a certain level of sweetness but most of the honey was floating around in the bottom of the styrofoam container in a liquid. The substance seemed to be a combination of rendered juices and condensation.

 

Cantonese chow mein is a favourite of mine and the Hong Kong Restaurant’s version did not disappoint. I thought the inclusion of several tender pieces of calamari was a nice addition, although a few shrimp would have been welcome too. The pork was juicy and the vegetables - broccoli, green pepper and onion - were crisp. The compulsory noodles were a tad soft.

 

The beef and green peppers, along with the Hong Kong Restaurant’s basic chicken fried rice would have made a nice meal on their own. Several thin slices of beautifully dark beef swam in a deep, rich gravy with slices of green pepper and onion. A few slices of bright orange carrot gave some extra colour and flavour. This dish matched well with the golden brown fluffy fried rice that seemed never ending despite us only having one container of it.

 

Have you ever tried dai dop woey? You should. It has a little bit of everything. The Hong Kong restaurant’s had shrimp, lots of crisp green broccoli and peppers, as well as chicken, pork, mushrooms and onions. Try the egg foo young while you’re at it. The eggy mixture, with onion, bean sprouts, celery and chicken fried into a golden omelet, was simply smashing.

 

Obviously I can’t comment on the table service at the Hong Kong Restaurant, however, the counter staff was quite friendly and efficient when I collected my order. The gold fish were well behaved too. I’m not sure if those shimmering beauties are bringing in customers but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if the food is. The Hong Kong Restaurant’s dinner for eight is a hit with this aficionado.

 

The Chinese dinner for eight at the Hong Kong Restaurant cost $87.50 plus GST.

 

The Hong Kong Restaurant was wheelchair accessible and the noise level was low.

 

Best Points:

Large servings and flavourful food.

 

Areas for Improvement:

Try another spareribs recipe.

 

Ratings Category:

The Hong Kong Restaurant’s dinner for eight gets 8 out of 10 points.

 

7 points = satisfactory, 7.5 = good, 8 = very good, 9 = excellent, 10 = perfection