Dining Out

Karl Wells

Champion’s Uptown

860 Topsail Road

Ph. 745-4899

Champion’s Uptown Family Barbecue Smokehouse, all thirteen syllables and five words is too long a name in my opinion. For simplicity’s and my typing finger’s sake I will refer to it as Champion’s Uptown. My friend Ted Blades - host of CBC Radio’s On the Go - sent me a note a while ago saying he’d heard Champion’s Uptown might be worth checking out. He’d never been but because he and I both appreciate good barbecue I was happy to be an advance man and check it out for Ted and the rest of my readers.

The first time I tasted decent barbecued ribs was years ago in a place called Bar B Barn on Guy St. in Montreal. A girlfriend who had worked in Montreal told me about the “Barn” when I was planning a trip there as a young man. What impressed me about the ribs in Montreal was the flavour. I soon learned that there is a tremendous difference between ribs that have been cooked quickly on a grill over high heat and ribs that have been “barbecued” – i.e. covered and cooked slowly to one side of the fire instead of directly over it. Covered ribs cooked by indirect heat are surrounded by smoke from burning wood chips and/or wood briquettes. The slow and low method makes for tender, juicy, flavourful ribs, cuts of pork, beef, lamb and poultry.

Upon entering Champion’s Uptown my first thought was, “thin on décor.” I saw dark stained plank wood floors and dark stained plank wood booths - with worn upholstery. In addition there were checkered cloth topped tables with dark stained wood chairs. A drink cooler bearing the logo of a popular cola whirred at the back of the restaurant. Ceiling fans twirled lazily above. All together the place gave the impression we might have walked into some roadside diner in the rural south. That was the “atmosphere” of the place. For a flash I was reminded of that tired Arizona café held hostage by Duke Mantee (Humphrey Bogart) in the Petrified Forest.

After our server explained that Champions Uptown had installed a smoke oven on their deck, I was determined to try their smoked ribs. I even sneaked out to take a peek at the rig. It was a standard home patio smoker, much like you’d find at Canadian Tire. Nonetheless I was delighted that a St. John’s restaurant was going to such lengths to offer freshly smoked delicacies. But before my smoked ribs I had to try one of Champion’s Uptown’s appetizers.

Champion’s Uptown’s cod au gratin was a heavy but tasty porridge of flaked codfish and milk, thickened with flour and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. It came in a small bowl topped with a combination of melted cheddar and mozzarella cheese. The words simple and homey came to mind as I sampled this appetizer.

Guest had the chicken vegetable soup and his assessment of the soup was pretty much the same as my opinion of the cod au gratin. It was an uncomplicated yet flavourful soup, similar to what’s made in thousands of homes around the province. I had a taste and thought they might have cut back on the rice, which was plentiful. The chicken bits were small, as were the vegetable pieces - small but nicely cut.

My entrée consisted of St. Louis smokers – described on the menu as, “thick St. Louis cut pork side ribs, seasoned with our special dry rub” – coleslaw and fries. The coleslaw was excellent. It was fresh, cool and crunchy. I noticed grated carrot amongst the grated cabbage. A nicely tart, thin, milky marinade seemed to promote the texture of the very crisp vegetables. Speaking of crisp, the French fries were deliciously so and golden brown as well.

My smoked side ribs were a tad disappointing. They certainly had flavour. I could taste hickory and apple wood smoke. However, they were not “fall from the bone tender done.” The meat – what there was of it - clung to the bones quite tightly. Next time I’ll probably try something different from the smoked menu. For example they also offered Texas style beef brisket, Carolina pulled pork and hickory maple turkey.

Guest’s entrée was a simple baked potato with grilled baby back ribs. His ribs WERE “fall from the bone tender done.” I had one and wished I had ordered the “grilled” ribs instead. They were moist and succulent and covered with a tangy barbecue sauce; perfect Friday night grub to wash down with a favourite lager.

My sweet tooth needed satisfying so I ordered Champion’s Uptown’s chocolate mousse cheesecake. The dessert appeared to be a no-bake cheesecake with little cheese. It was very much a mousse cake, smooth and creamy but firmer in the lower extremities than toward the top. The heel of the cake consisted of chocolate biscuit crumbs.

As I left Champion’s Uptown I looked back longingly at the sleek, black smoker on the deck. For me, it had held such promise. I knew what culinary feats it was capable of. Sadly, I had not seen its potential realized. However, one day soon I hope I will.

Our meal for two at Champion’s Uptown – including two beers and gratuity – cost $65.60.

Champions Uptown was not wheelchair accessible and the noise level was low.

Best Points:

Good grilled meats.

Areas for Improvement:

Make your smoked side ribs more succulent.

Ratings Category:

Champion’s Uptown gets 7.5 out of 10 points.

7 points = satisfactory, 7.5 = good, 8 = very good, 9 = excellent, 10 = perfection