Albatross Hotel
T.C.H. Gander
Ph. 256-3956
The Albatross Dining Room sits at the centre of the
Albatross Hotel like the core of a bruised apple. The dining room itself
appears to be holding up but the rest of the building looks worn and dated. A
wall of impeccably clean glass surrounds the Albatross Dining Room. Seen from
outside, through its glass cocoon, the room of mirror covered posts and
planters – filled with green fabric plants – sparkles like an oasis.
When my guest and I walked into the Albatross Dining Room
we had plenty of spots to choose from. Only a couple of the restaurant’s
approximately fifteen tables were taken. We chose one behind a group of chatty
convention delegates from St. John’s. I recognized nattily dressed and bow-tied
Dr. Bill Eaton among the delegates.
The restaurant looked like someone playing around with a
geometry set had designed it. Placement of the triangular, mirror-covered
planters essentially divided much of the room into triangles. This created
various tooth shaped nooks where tables were located. Each table was covered
with a peach coloured tablecloth and burgundy napkins fancy-folded into fans.
A short wine list featured mostly standard New World wines
from North America and Australia. Not wanting to polish off an entire bottle we
decided to order a glass each of the room’s house wine. Unfortunately, the
Albatross Dining Room’s house wines were less than impressive. One, a table
wine by Kressman, was rough French plonk that few self-respecting Frenchmen
would drink when dining out. The others, Canadian products Alpenweiss and
French Cross, always make me think “Mississauga factory” instead of “Niagara
vineyard.” However, the French Cross – hints of “factory” aside – seemed the
best and most drinkable choice.
Beginnings were seafood. Guest had bacon wrapped scallops.
I’m of the opinion that only very large scallops should be wrapped in smoky
bacon. If the scallops are small, all you taste is bacon. Guest’s scallops were
small and while I enjoyed the textures of the crunchy bacon and delicate
seafood, I found it difficult to taste much scallop flavour.
The Albatross Dining Room’s plate of smoked salmon came
with sliced onion and lemon. I enjoyed the Nova Scotia product. The pale pink flesh
had a pleasing, mild flavour that was coaxed along by a drizzle of fresh lemon
juice. The rings of raw onion didn’t appeal to me. I would have included a
sprinkling of capers with this dish.
The room’s prime rib was a waterlogged misadventure. I thought
I was going to receive a cut of beef that had been roasted, accompanied by a
dark, flavourful pan jus. What arrived was a grey, bland, pre-portioned slab of
meat that appeared to have been cooked in a steamer. The meat was in a too
large amount of mostly tasteless coloured water, not classic pan jus. The water
had soaked through and ruined the bottoms of my home fries. The few tasty green
beans and carrots were also drenched. Looking like a self-conscious actor on an
empty stage a dry, hollow Yorkshire pudding sat conspicuously atop the meat.
The Yorkshire tasted packaged and stale. One of the conventioneers behind us
who had also ordered the prime rib sent it back.
Guest fared better with his pan-fried cod. The fillets were
thin but enjoyable, despite being slightly overcooked. The mashed potato –
served like Mom’s from an ice cream scoop – was pleasantly creamy. A medley of
green beans, carrots and red pepper were fresh and sweet.
The Albatross Dining Room offered an impressive selection
of homemade desserts – cheesecake with partridgeberry and bakeapple toppings,
coconut and chocolate cream cakes. I tried their bakeapple tart with lattice
pastry top for sentimental reasons. It reminded me of the pies my granny made.
The pie was served cold, instead of room temperature. I enjoyed the deep,
intense flavour of the berries but unfortunately the pastry left a lingering
aftertaste of refrigerator. I regretted not having the cheesecake.
I’ve always found it interesting that a business like the
Albatross Hotel would take the word “albatross” for a name. Ever since studying
Coleridge’s, Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, that word makes me shudder. I
remember the lines, “ What evil looks had I from old
and young! Instead of the cross, the Albatross about my neck was hung.” Despite
its name – which may have been chosen by the owner as a “damn the torpedoes”
sort of joke - the Albatross Dining Room and the hotel itself have been
unemcumbered by a name that is synonymous with the word “encumbrance.” I sincerely hope a “damn the prime rib”
sentiment does not develop.
Our meal for two at the
Albatross Dining Room – including two glasses of wine and gratuity – cost
$84.16.
The Albatross Dining Room was
wheelchair accessible and the noise level was low.
Best Points:
Pleasant atmosphere.
Areas for Improvement:
Fix the prime rib dinner.
Ratings Category:
The Albatross Dining Room gets
7.5 points out of 10.
7 points =
satisfactory, 7.5 = good, 8 = very good, 9 = excellent, 10 = perfection