Ph. 576-5500
I loved the chairs. They were well built, classically
stylish - Queen Anne - and thoroughly comfy despite tired upholstery. Without a
doubt, Taj Mahal’s chairs were the most comfortable restaurant chairs I’ve
rested my bones on for a long, long time. It’s amazing how I calmed in the
knowledge that my perch was not going to suddenly go flying out from underneath
me. I’m not being silly here. I’ve been in more than a few
Feeling settled and secure I spent a few minutes observing
the room. It was long and narrow with an alcove off to one side at the back.
Also at the back was a viewing room where patrons were able to see Kuldeep, the
chef, cooking meats and breads in a tandoor - Indian oven. I couldn’t help
thinking of how much the space had changed since the days of The Fishing
Admiral, when performers like Sneezy Waters and K.D. Lang performed exactly
where the tandoor was standing.
There was a group of window tables at front and a long line
of tables stretching through the centre of the restaurant to the back. The
walls and ceilings were covered in a variety of materials or none in areas that
featured exposed brick. On one section of wall and carried across a section of
ceiling was painted paneling that looked like cladding from a recreational
vehicle. Several mixed media pictures were hung around the restaurant, all with
black backgrounds meant to enhance the images of Indian characters and
elephants, all dressed in rainbow colours, bangles and various other
adornments. Much of the décor looked tired, not matched and dated to me. As
well, a lick of new paint seemed in order.
Server, Mona, was far too young to remember the days of
Sneezy and K.D. I suspected the only music she had heard inside the place was
the type playing during my visit, very soothing Indian music. A haunting female
voice stood out for its emotional commitment. Mona stood out for her gregarious
manner; her obvious knowledge of the menu and her commitment to making sure the
customers enjoyed their dining experience.
We began with pappadums made with chickpea flour. They’re
like giant potato chips. In this case they were so light I would not have been
surprised if a few had floated upward out of the basket. My companion and I
enjoyed them with some delicious mango chutney. It was sweet and slightly tart
with a somewhat grainy texture from very tiny fragments of mango.
The Indian breads at Taj Mahal were everything I had hoped
for, exquisitely fresh and aromatic. Any time you have the opportunity to be
served bread straight from an oven, my advice is, “go for it.” The roti - made
with whole-wheat flour - was heavier and more flavourful than the naan, however
both were very good.
Tandoori prawns came to our table sizzling and steaming,
too hot to eat without blowing on them several times. Cooked on skewers with
pieces of fresh tomato they, like the tomato, had acquired the wonderful smoky
flavours of the tandoor. I bit into the milky white flesh with relish. The
simplicity of this dish appealed to me. No oil was used, just the prawns and
tomato, spiced with red pepper and turmeric.
Taj Mahal’s butter chicken was the best butter chicken I
have ever tasted. The fire engine red dish was redolent of butter and contained
deep, complex flavours. The sauce had the capability of producing euphoria even
in the most finicky eater. The aroma alone from this red velvet concoction was
worth the $13.95 price. Try it. You’ll love it.
The chana-masala was a pleasant surprise. I like chickpeas
but I never expect much from them. But, like tofu, which can be so cleverly
used in vegetarian cooking, Taj Mahal and Chef Kuldeep had worked wonders.
Apart from the flavour of tomato and earthy chickpeas, the dish was made
somewhat exotic by a large dash of cumin. The addition of red pepper also made
a lingering impression.
Mona wisely suggested the lamb kadhai. It became another
instant hit with me. Small portions of lamb rested in a thick fruity, tomato
sauce punctuated with Karachi spices, ginger and green peppers. The bold,
mature flavours carried a definite lamb taste at the front.
Taj Mahal’s chicken biryani was quite tasty as well. It was
a wonderful, rib sticking combination of basmati rice, chicken, green peas,
raisins and hard cooked eggs. It would have made a great lunch all on its own.
More basmati rice came at the conclusion of the meal,
Indian rice pudding. Served cold it was a fragrant and refreshing dish. The
rice grains maintained their integrity, providing lots of texture, as they swam
in the cold thick milk.
If you’re craving something sweet to end your meal but
can’t handle more food, try Taj Mahal’s masala tea. It’s hot, sweet, creamy and
spiced. To me it was like comfort food in liquid form.
Taj Mahal was closed for about a year and many thought that
was the end of it. The owners, the doctors Kamra, had been searching for a new
chef. Eventually they found Kuldeep in India and brought him back here to work
his culinary wonders in Canada. I hope and pray he likes it here. I cannot
imagine what St. John’s would be like without Kuldeep’s butter chicken.
Our meal - including plenty of leftovers to take home, a
bottle of Molina Reserva and tip - cost $148.80. However, it’s not a problem
for a couple to have dinner at Taj Mahal for under $100.
You might want to try their less expensive lunchtime
buffet, Monday to Friday, 11:30 am to 2:00 pm.
Taj Mahal was not wheelchair accessible. The noise level
was moderate.
Best Points:
Excellent food.
Areas for Improvement:
Consult a good interior decorator.
Ratings Category:
Taj Mahal gets 8.5 points out of 10.