Dining Out

Karl Wells

 

Cora’s Restaurant

Atlantic Place

215 Water Street

Ph. 722-6720

 

I was not expecting to see Water Street lined with parked vehicles on a Saturday at 8 am. Yet, that was what I encountered when, along with a couple of guests, I drove downtown recently to have breakfast at the newly opened Cora's Restaurant in Atlantic Place. At first I thought the autos belonged to Friday night revelers wise enough to take a cab home after imbibing. When I walked into Cora's, located on the first floor of Atlantic Place, I realized that most - if not all - of the vehicles belonged to Cora's customers. The large restaurant was full. After a brief delay a friendly server showed us to a window table offering an excellent close-up view of St. John's harbour. The view was expansive thanks to the extra large panes of glass installed as part of the ongoing Atlantic Place renovations. I doubt the reno will make a silk purse out of the sow's ear known as Atlantic Place, but good luck to them anyway.

 

Cora's is a chain with restaurants in Atlantic Canada and Quebec. Being a breakfast and lunch operation only, they close daily at 3 pm. Most of Cora's considerable reputation was built on breakfast. Prior to the St. John's opening a couple of people, including my sister, who lives in Cora country - Halifax - had mentioned Cora's to me as being a place for decent vittles and generous portions. From eyeballing the plates of diners on my way to our table I could see that much of the sizable serving on each plate was comprised of a large medley of freshly cut fruit. That sat well with me because I have found that many family restaurants in St. John's prefer to serve fruit from a bottle. Some of the preserved stuff is not bad but what can compare to freshly cut pineapple, watermelon, et cetera?

 

Cora’s at Atlantic Place was one of the brightest and friendliest of restaurants. I’m sure it must be the new jewel in the crown of the Cora’s empire. I was told that their restaurants are generally found in strip malls or similar venues, so to be located in prime real estate overlooking one of Canada’s most famous harbours is probably a step up for Cora’s.

 

Apart from the view and light provided by the large windows, Cora’s decorative touches added brightness. The walls featured cheerful colours from the pastel palette as well as bright, professional signage that dotted the walls. Cora’s signage, by the way, was designed to give the impression of being hand drawn by a good amateur, no doubt to add to the warm and friendly atmosphere. On the piece of wall above the open kitchen where 8 or 9 line cooks busily cut peel from pineapple, sliced cantaloupe and cooked French toast, I saw a sign that said “eggs and sausage.” It featured a rough drawing of the whitest fried eggs with perfectly yellow yokes, paired with two brown sausages.

 

Cora’s servers busily maneuvered around several booths with blue plaid covers and tables for 2 and 4 people. They were a young staff that appeared to be doing their best to please the diners at their respective tables. The servers wore dark blue shirts with black aprons while the hosts wore shirts of light blue.

 

I began with a tropical fruit smoothie instead of coffee. It featured mango, banana, peach, pineapple, cranberry and a dash of yogurt. The pink liquid arrived in a tall glass with a wedge of fresh pineapple on its rim and a slice of cantaloupe on its serving plate. The drink was full of flavours; banana dominated. The banana, along with the yogurt, gave the drink viscosity and smoothness.

 

One of my guests had cinnamon toast topped with an over-easy egg. Her plate also featured fried bacon and a mixture of freshly cut fruit. The fruit served included watermelon, bananas, grapes and strawberries. All of it was exquisitely fresh. She especially liked the cinnamon toast and was pleased that her egg was cooked properly.

 

My other guest had French toast topped with fried bacon. It was made with thick slices of white bread that were crispy outside and tender inside. The bacon was crispy too, as well as piquant. Maple syrup - added by guest - gave just the right note of sweetness to bring out extra taste.

 

I enjoyed my sausages wrapped in buckwheat crepes and covered with melted white cheddar. The crepes were dark. They had that signature deep, slightly tangy, buckwheat flavour. However, the addition of syrup was absolutely necessary, not only for extra taste but also for extra moisture. The crepes were on the slightly dry side.

 

I loved all of the various pieces of freshly cut fruit on my plate, almost too much to remember. There was watermelon, cantaloupe, orange, apple, pineapple, grapes, banana and possibly more, taking up more than half my plate. The fresh fruit was no doubt responsible for the approximately 10-dollar cost of the dish but it was well worth it to be able to enjoy such a treat in a local restaurant.

 

The essential morning java flowed freely at Cora’s - both regular and freshly brewed decaf. Servers kept busy topping up half empty cups. The coffee was hot and fresh but not gourmet. Gourmet is not a word you’d use to describe anything at Cora’s but try “fresh,” “wholesome,” “tasty,” “homemade” and you won’t go wrong. My sources were right when they said I’d like Cora’s. It was a good choice for breakfast, without a doubt, but for a nostalgia buff like me, the St. John’s Cora’s experience had the added kick of reminding me of all the enjoyable meals I’ve had in the past at harbourfront restaurants in St John’s. They were restaurants with exactly the same view. Remember Bowring’s Captain’s Cabin, The Light, Galley and Tickle and The Starboard Quarter? It warms my heart to know that there’s at least one restaurant again operating from the same vantage point as those from long ago.

 

Our meal for 3 at Cora’s - including tip - cost approximately $53.

 

The noise level at Cora’s was HIGH and it was wheelchair accessible.

 

Best Points:

Fabulous view and great fresh fruit.

 

Areas for Improvement:

Be careful not to dry out your crepes.

 

Ratings Category:

Cora’s Restaurant gets 8 points out of 10.