Dining Out

Karl Wells

 

The Bistro

College of the North Atlantic

Prince Philip Drive

Ph. 758-7240

 

I am going to let you in on the best-kept secret in St. John’s. No, really, it is. Just promise me that you won’t all try to take advantage of the following information at the same time. Here it is. There is a dining room called, The Bistro, at the College of the North Atlantic’s Prince Philip Drive campus where members of the general public can enjoy a three course luncheon, dining on foods like smoked salmon, chicken Kiev, herb crusted salmon and rack of lamb for only $10. Yes, that’s right, only 10 measly dollars.

 

Most colleges and universities that offer culinary training operate restaurants and cafeterias that provide food prepared by students in their various cooking programs. Think about it, you have to cook to learn the trade and somebody has to eat what you make, so operating a restaurant or two on campus makes perfect sense. The Culinary Institute of America has American Bounty and 4 other acclaimed restaurants at its Hyde Park, New York campus and I have had the pleasure of dining on some exquisite food at the award-winning Chef’s Palate, run by the culinary arts school at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale.

 

Recently I had a luncheon meeting at The Bistro with two of the College of the North Atlantic’s administrators and cooking instructor Gerry Crewe. After entering the college’s main doors I kept right of the central elevator and followed the corridor facing me past the gymnasium until I got to its end. On my left I found the main cafeteria and on my right a quiet room with dim lighting called The Bistro.

 

It was a room of moderate size with walls of green, sparsely decorated with pictures of chefs.

I saw about 7 or 8 large round tables, some with green and some with white tablecloths, set with white plates, stainless cutlery and white linen napkins. At one end, by the windows, was set out various buffet tables and a hot line manned by cooking students.

 

On offer that day was a menu consisting of smoked salmon appetizers, Philippine hamburger soup, corn and crab chowder, Chinese style vegetable and noodle soup, tomato aspic, potato salad with red cabbage, crusted rack of lamb with jus, baked Virginia ham, pan sautéed cod with shrimp and mussels, potato gratin, snow peas O’Brien, carrots Vicky, tagliatelle with smoked salmon and assorted desserts.

 

I started with a yummy wedge of icy cold tomato aspic. It was very, very refreshing. Essentially it's tomato juice, gelatin, a few tiny pieces of freshly chopped vegetables like celery and seasonings. It is denser than a jelly, not translucent. The flavour of tomato and celery was intense. Gerry Crewe, told me there was a time when this starter was de rigueur in hotel dining rooms but "these days there's not much call for it." Pity, beats a glass of tomato juice any day.

 

There were a couple of soups on the menu, a corn and rock crab chowder and a tomato based ground beef soup. I tried the chowder. It was delicious, velvety, not cloying or stodgy. In addition to several pieces of crabmeat my bowl contained some diced fresh potato with the skin intact, as well as bright yellow corn kernels. The seasonings were mild, not too much salt. I was impressed because the flavour of the main ingredients really came through.

 

A perfectly groomed, Ron Pumphrey, in autumn coloured casuals, was there with wife Marilyn, who flashed one of the warmest smiles I’d ever seen. Ron told me he enjoys the bistro's food and sometimes makes a meal out of the various appetizers. He was in amazing shape at 75 and looked the same to me as he did when he was hosting Phone Forum on VOCM in the early seventies.

 

My fish dish consisted of pan-sautéed cod fillet topped with a sautéed shrimp and mussel. Creamy Newburg sauce was also provided. The cod was moist, flavourful and quite flaky. My vegetable choices began with sautéed carrots Vicky - why Vicky I cannot say - tasting buttery and sweet. They had eye-catching colour as well. Snow peas O'Brien was a winning vegetable dish. Snow peas were mixed with tiny cubes of sweet red and yellow peppers. There were fabulous flavours in the dish, sweet, slightly tart sunshine flavours of the peppers and the earthy, slightly biting taste of the snow peas.

 

A potato gratin was also tasty. The potatoes were cut in thick julienne strips, almost qualifying as a "French fry" cut. It tasted to me of stock - possibly chicken stock - and strongly of cheese, aged cheddar perhaps. I loved the potatoes. They were cooked until tender but still held their shape.

 

For the meat lover, the Bistro had prepared lamb chops. A hotel pan was filled to the brim with dozens of the delicious little things. They were tender and tasted like high quality New Zealand lamb chops.

 

The Bistro provided previously frozen desserts, not ones baked by the students. However, using their newly acquired decorating skills, the students did enliven them and the plates they came on with some fancy squiggles and squirts of chocolate and cream sauces. Coffee and tea was served by a staff server and like the food, the coffee was excellent. There was no wine or alcohol available but for the price of $10.00, it was still the best low cost fine dining meal I've ever had. Bravo students!

 

The Bistro serves lunch sharp at noon on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Reservations are required and you can make them by calling Gerry Crewe at 758-7240. Enjoy!