27 Elizabeth Ave.
Ph. 753-8887
I have lousy handwriting. Consequently, examples of
particularly good handwriting and all forms of calligraphy fascinate me. That’s
why, recently, I could be found sitting in a booth at Sequerra’s restaurant
staring trancelike at four beautiful examples of Chinese calligraphy on four
separate opaque glass panels above the counter. I couldn’t tell you the style
of calligraphy I was enjoying. It may have been a style from the Tang, Song or some
other dynasty from the past three thousand years. I’m no expert in these
matters. However, to me it was the same as looking at pieces of art; they’re
pleasing to the eye.
Sequerra’s has a few other eye-catching items like Chinese
prints and colourful ornamental lanterns but mostly the décor is standard
Chinese restaurant/takeaway, much as you’d find in hundreds of similar eateries
throughout Canada. There’s comfortable booth seating and tables in two areas.
The slightly elevated section also contains Sequerra’s busy buffet table - an
“all you care to eat” buffet is offered Monday to Friday from 11:30am to 2pm
and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday there’s an evening buffet from 4:30pm to
8:30pm. A handsome decorative divider separates one level of the red, brown and
cream coloured room from the other. Sequerra’s flower print tablecloths were a
nice change from the standard naked laminate tabletops with paper placemats
found in many similar restaurants.
My guest and I began our Chinese repast with essential
choices - for many at least - egg rolls and spring rolls. Both types satisfied.
The spring rolls were nicely crisp and stuffed with ground pork, shredded
cabbage, onion, garlic and ginger, all tasting incredibly fresh. The egg rolls
had a crunchy wrapping as well, but the filling was slightly different. An
array of fresh vegetables like bean sprouts, cabbage, garlic and mushrooms gave
flavour, along with tiny pieces of roast chicken.
In case you’re wondering about the name “Sequerra’s,” it’s
the name of the owners’ ten-year-old daughter, Sequerra Batino. Her father,
Lito Batino - who is from the Philippines - his wife, Shelley Pollett, and
Lito’s cousin, Elmo Batino, took over the restaurant a few years ago and have
been operating it very much as a family business. On the evening we visited,
Lito Batino was in the kitchen cooking; wife Shelley and little Sequerra were
behind the counter. This family involvement gives Sequerra’s an ambience that’s
hard to describe. At the very least it’s warm, familiar and friendly.
Sequerra’s regulars are treated almost like extended family, including a
middle-aged woman who stopped by our table to whisper, “The food here is
fantastic.” An ample gentleman arrived and Shelley greeted him with, “Mr. E.
it’s your second visit this week.”
Shortly after the appetizers a parade of colourful platters
arrived: Szechwan shrimp, Mongolian fish, Kung Pao chicken and satay beef. The
Szechwan shrimp immediately impressed me by the quality of its sauce. It tasted
like a fine French sauce, smooth, buttery and aromatic. It was the perfect
spicy hot medium for the medley of shrimp, cauliflower, celery, carrots and
green pepper. The shrimp - shelled for convenience - were moist, soft as a
peach and fresh.
Sequerra’s Mongolian fish was fire engine red, thanks to a
thorough coating of sweet and sour sauce and a few drops of food colouring.
Battered pieces of exquisitely fresh cod had been quickly deep-fried, coated
with the sauce and served on a bed of lettuce. Sequerra’s version was a model of
how this dish should be prepared. The small pieces of fish were cooked just
long enough. They were sweet, tangy, flaky and moist.
There’s a tradition in China of naming dishes after
influential or powerful people. The Kung Pao was the minder for the incumbent
emperor, an important fellow in the Imperial Court. Apparently, during the
Ching dynasty, the Kung Pao favoured a spicy meal consisting of chicken and
peanuts. If the story is true, I suspect the Kung Pao in question might have
been a tiny bit disappointed by one aspect of Sequerra’s dish. There was only a
small amount of chicken in this otherwise well prepared dish. It contained
cashews instead of peanuts - not a problem for me since I believe cashews
always trump peanuts. However, the sauce with Sequerra’s Kung Pao chicken
certainly would not draw any complaints. It was rich, silky and flavourful.
Sequerra’s satay beef was a little puzzling. I expected thin
slices of marinated and grilled beef on skewers, the traditional method of
preparation for this Indonesian shish kabob that’s becoming popular in many
Chinese restaurants. What we got was beautifully tender slices of beef in a
dark, rich, spicy sauce laden with onion, green peppers and bits of pineapple.
It reminded me of the ubiquitous standard, “beef with green peppers,” found on
most Chinese menus. It was delicious and I liked the savoury versus sweet
effect from the addition of pineapple but it wasn’t what I’d call “satay” beef.
Coconut desserts are popular in many Chinese restaurants
around the world, from simple coconut or coconut-pineapple ice cream to the
higher-end coconut crème brulee served in pricey Chinese restaurants. Many
Newfoundland restaurants have for years served the North American favourite,
coconut cream pie. Sequerra’s homemade version was a winner. It had a light
filling - coconut flavoured milk and cream thickened with cornstarch or gelatin
- on a basic graham crust, topped with toasted flakes of coconut. It melted
like meringue in my mouth. Mildly sweetened and mildly flavoured, this
ephemeral confection was a fitting conclusion to our substantial yet satisfying
meal.
Our meal at Sequerra’s - including a beer, a glass of wine
and tip - cost $77.22.
Best Points:
A friendly atmosphere and very good food.
Areas for Improvement:
Add more chicken to the Kung Pao.
Ratings Category:
Sequerra’s gets 8 out of 10 points.