411 Torbay Rd.
My first experience in a true Greek restaurant was with a food-loving friend and several other people starving for a taste of authentic Greek cuisine. The U.S. restaurant was called Taverna Opa and it turned out that that word, “opa,” got shouted a lot in that restaurant, especially when people would throw handfuls of white paper napkins into the air in celebration. What they were celebrating didn’t seem to matter as much as having the freedom to toss piles of napkins in the air. Apparently, firing off napkins that rained down on heads like giant confetti was a substitute for smashing plates. It’s just as well, the place was noisy enough without plates being shattered, as patrons also danced or stomped on long plank tables while drinking restorative shots of ouzo.
I didn’t see anyone dancing on tables at Mama Soula’s, breaking plates or even accidentally dropping a napkin. My evening at the local “almost” Greek eatery was more sedate but equally enjoyable. It’s hard to beat a combination of warm atmosphere, good food and live singing. Canned music was at a minimum on the night my companion and I wandered into Mama Soula’s. We were able to enjoy some wonderful entertainment thanks to the Devine clan who had taken over a long table at the epicenter of the bustling restaurant for a family celebration. Ann Devine was the scheduled entertainment that evening and she really delivered. I only hope everyone dining at Mama Soula’s appreciated her extraordinary talent. A bonus that made the evening extra special was hearing her 89-year-old father, Brendan Devine, render Danny Boy and one of the tiny cousins - she was about 4 and named Arden - sang Puff the Magic Dragon. Brendan was definitely up for it, even joking with the audience about a “last minute gig at Carnegie Hall” and “rushing back to sing at Mama Soula’s.”
Mama Soula’s and an adjacent pub are ventures begun a few years ago by Peter Mathioudakis. Many of you would be familiar with his longtime business, Peter’s Pizza, and its 6 locations in St. John’s and Conception Bay South. In my younger days I practically lived on his pizza, purchased from the original location at the corner of Patrick and Pleasant. Now, with Mama Soula’s, he’s gone upscale and created a full-service Greek styled restaurant with authentic delicacies prepared by Chef Peter Wedgewood.
Mama Soula’s is an eye-catching space featuring two dining levels, a higher level at the front framed by ornamental, Greek inspired wrought iron rails - built into two separate partitions - and a main level, divided by Greek columns, that stretches back to where you’ll find a private concealed section for groups. A dark stained counter bar runs along the north wall. Altogether the restaurant has approximately 3 booths and 12 tables. Colourful caricatures of mustachioed cooks hang on the walls of the white and blue themed eatery and large pots of artificial red geraniums sit on the windowsills.
It had been quite a while since I’d had a flambéed dish so my companion and I decided to share an appetizer called, saganaki opa - there’s that word again, opa. It featured a 1/4 inch slice of Greek cheese - usually Kasseri or Kofalotiri - that appeared to have been fried or broiled until lightly brown, then - at our table - doused with Greek brandy and set alight. My first reaction, after seeing the bright yellow flame burst upward from the dish was to shout, “Opa!!” I knew then why it was called, saganaki “opa.” Finally, it was drizzled with a squeeze of the Greek’s favourite flavouring, fresh lemon juice. The cheese had a toasty aroma and its beaded surface, glistened in a slick of oil. It was lemon tangy, dense, chewy and relentlessly rich as the oil mingled with the slightly softened white dairy product. We devoured every delicious, slippery, oozing ounce along with triangles of fresh pita.
Next came two classics of Greek cookery, dolmadakia - stuffed vine leaves - and marinated, grilled oktopothi or octopus…OPA!! - Sorry, I couldn’t resist. - I loved both of these appetizers. The dolmadakia was like a Greek version of inari sushi, except vine leaves replaced the deep fried tofu bags. The vine leaves were moist and tender; the rice filling was practically creamy and thoroughly infused with the potent influence of refreshing dill weed, as well as lemon, pepper, olive oil and onion.
The oktopothi was even better, if that’s possible. I received a small plate of tiny oktopothi that had been marinated in oregano, vinegar and olive oil and then grilled. They were tender, tart and textured better than calamari, perhaps because of those little finger tentacles rowed with tiny suction cups. Combined with the robust oregano vinaigrette, I found them to be absolutely addictive. Even my companion, who ordinarily would be completely averse to anything with one tentacle or one suction cup, let alone several - liked the oktopothi.
My main or entrée was a plateful of honest, nourishing Greek home cooking called arni fourno. It consisted of a beautifully thick slab of roast lamb moistened with a richly flavoured pan jus. The meat was succulent and tender - I asked for medium rare - and paired well with a pile of zesty Greek lemon roasted potato wedges that nearly sang with flavour. A non-traditional Greek salad of very fresh mixed greens and the usual ingredients: tomato, feta, etcetera provided balance and additional taste.
My companion chose the souvlaki platter of charbroiled marinated chicken. Several juicy bits of herby, boneless chicken, with smoky overtones were served with a cool, creamy, cucumber fresh tzatziki sauce and pita pieces. I enjoyed the chicken almost as much as my lamb. It was peasant fare, washed down with a simple glass of cab/merlot - Chilean wine, not Greek, but an excellent match just the same.
The finale to our meal came in the form of the famous Greek sweet, baklava. Mama Soula’s is especially nutty, the nuttiest I’ve tasted. Tender layers of phyllo pastry wrapping was filled with spoonfuls of crushed almonds and walnuts and plated on a sea of honey sauce scented with cinnamon. It was a rich, sticky, crunchy conglomeration and I loved every treacley mouthful. The baklava and the entire evening’s food and entertainment made me want to scream…OPA! OPA! OPA!
Our meal for two at Mama Soula’s, including 4 glasses of wine and tip, cost $113.94.
Best Points:
Pleasant ambience, good food, entertainment and service.
Areas for Improvement:
Add more Greek dishes and Greek wine to your menu.
Ratings Category:
Mama Soula’s gets 8.5 out of 10 points.