Karl Wells
183 Duckworth St.
Ph. 579-7071
Devito’s is a great name for a restaurant. It’s simple, easy
to remember, and because it’s Italian it has the effect of making me think of
wonderful sunshine food, swimming in fragrant sauces redolent with fine olive
oils and enriched with ingredients like vine ripened tomatoes, fresh herbs,
pancetta and flavourful olives. Of course, the name also makes me think of
Danny Devito but I try not to dwell there. However, don’t be fooled into
thinking Devito’s is an Italian restaurant. Based on Devito’s menu, it’s many
things, including Portuguese - Chef Miguel Borges is from Portugal - French,
Spanish and, of course, Italian. Charming server, Jamie Mercer likes to promote
Devito’s as a “European” restaurant and that works for me. Jamie couldn’t tell
me how the restaurant came to be called Devito’s but she did tell me it was not
named for the owner, because her name is Phyllis Flynn.
I walked into Devito’s not expecting to see so many booths.
In fact, Devito’s had numerous dark, wood paneled booths built high for privacy
that contained tables covered in white cloth. Deep yellow walls were mostly
masked by an eclectic collection of pictures, everything from European
architecture, Italian countryside and Mediterranean vistas to photo portraits
of famous personages, chefs and magazine covers. Devito’s had a pleasing décor
that looked unplanned and authentic. However, I suspect a great deal of thought
and planning was involved in putting it together.
My guest started with shrimps in a garlic, rosemary and
white wine sauce. The white plate provided a perfect background for the
shouting colours of pink shrimp, green herbs and pale yellow sauce, not to
mention the bright yellow of the turmeric tinged rice timbale at the centre of
the plate. The tiger shrimp were tender and delicate and the shimmering sauce
that thinly coated the plate worked beautifully with the seafood. Pungent
cooked garlic made a substantial contribution to the dish as well, thoroughly
and deliciously permeating every molecule of the shrimp.
I felt like making mine an all-European menu so I began with
Devito’s calamari Italiano - “sautéed fresh calamari with tomatoes in garlic
and white wine.” Rings of perfectly cooked calamari, tender and sweet, wore a
smooth coat of red tomato sauce. The sauce had plenty of character, fruity
tones from good olive oil, earthy hints of freshly cut thyme and the sunny
flavour and slight acidity of very ripe tomatoes. It was a substantial - but not
overwhelmingly so - appetizer.
In deference to the chef, Miguel Borges, I ordered an entrée
of bacalhau - salted cod - Portuguese style. It seemed the right choice. How
often does one get to enjoy this rustic dish prepared by someone who has the
essence of the Iberian Peninsula flowing through his veins? I would not have
been surprised if Borges had salted the fish himself - which is not to say it
wasn’t salty - because it looked very white and very fresh. The cod had been
pan-fried and then cloaked in a sauce that made the entire dish a double for
the flag of Portugal. You had the white fish with yellow onions, red tomatoes,
green peppers and black olives. It was delicious, especially when washed down
with a glass of red wine. A side of nutty oven roasted potatoes helped soak up
the sauce, as well as some slightly underdone carrots. A word of warning
though, the fish was very salty and may not be to everyone’s taste.
My guest’s entrée, Devito’s grilled yellowfin tuna, was also
sensational - and frankly I was torn between choosing it or the bacalhau.
Happily I was able to taste the dish and found it excellent. The tuna was
beautifully tender and moist - obviously grilled for just a couple of minutes
on each side. It was covered in a dark brandy sauce primarily seasoned with
freshly cracked pepper, but with a few other spices and herbs as well. I’m a
huge fan of fresh tuna but it’s easy to ruin by holding it to the fire too
long. Miguel Borges knows how to cook tuna properly - and obviously quite a few
other things as well.
As if things couldn’t get any better, Devito’s sound system
started pumping out the music of Tuscany’s own, Andrea Bocelli just as I was
being served a cut of Devito’s tiramisu. It, like the music of the Italian
tenor was heavenly. The cake was very moist; my fork slid through the tiramisu
effortlessly, picking up first some of the powdered chocolate surface, then the
creamy filling and finally, the cake. My only criticism would be the lack of
coffee flavour. I like a definite taste of coffee in my tiramisu but it seems
that many St. John’s restaurants aren’t inclined to add enough coffee so that
you can actually taste it.
The service at Devito’s was extraordinarily good. Our
server, Jaime Mercer, was knowledgeable and attentive, without being
“in-your-face.” She seemed to know exactly when to be available and when not to
disturb. Perhaps she should think about giving a course in how to properly wait
tables. I’m sure there are a few restaurants around town that could avail of
her help.
Finally, a word about the bread we were served at Devito’s
and I mention this only to illustrate the importance of first impressions. It
was the first item that appeared on our table and we were really hungry, so it
was going to be eaten. Devito’s is too good a restaurant to be serving such
bread. It tasted like slightly stale supermarket bin bread. It was thin slices
of white, insubstantial and characterless fluff. Even the olive oil and
balsamic vinegar found on each table could not help it.
Thankfully, everything else served was wonderful but to be
presented with such food first was off-putting and made me a bit nervous about
the quality of what would follow. I even thought about leaving. I would like to
suggest that Devito’s try serving some authentic European bread like Portuguese
corn bread or Italian focaccia, olive bread, or Pugliese - moist “country”
bread flavoured with olive oil. Restaurants should not allow something as
simple as a basket of bread spoil the beginning of what should be a totally pleasant
experience for their diners.
Our meal at Devito’s Restaurant, including four glasses of
wine and tip, cost $115.36.
Best Points:
Wonderful food and fabulous service.
Areas for Improvement:
Serve better quality bread.
Ratings Category:
Devito’s Restaurant gets 8 points out of 10.