Dining Out

with Karl Wells

 

Spindrift Dining Room

 

Recently, driving south (about one hour) with friends along the Bonavista Bay coastline on the highway known as "the loop", we arrived at Musgrave Harbour, eager to satisfy our hunger at Spindrift-by-the-Sea, 87 Main Street. This twelve room oceanside hotel features a popular dining room serving plenty of home style items like turkey soup, fish cakes, halibut steaks, and Newfoundland's ubiquitous hot turkey and hot roast beef sandwiches. The mouth-watering aroma of a pot of simmering homemade turkey soup permeated the air. I yielded to temptation. Even on a warm day it was just what I needed to kick-start my palette, thick and flavorful with lots of turkey. I splurged and ordered a bottle of rough cabernet for our table of four.

 

We sat near a window with a fabulous view that looked across the calm gray waters of the harbour. For me, a seafood platter at $16.95 seemed an appropriate entree choice. In jig time our food arrived. My friend Cyril, who has consumed many a hot roast beef sandwich in his seventy-six years, pronounced the thick, gravy-laden creation on his plate, "perfect".

 

Meanwhile, my plate was brimming over with pan-fried halibut, wild salmon, battered shrimp, battered scallops, fries, and peas and carrots. Once I got beyond the disappointment of soggy peas and carrots, the rest of the meal was quite tasty. I especially enjoyed the wild salmon with its naturally robust flavor. Isn't it a pity that wild salmon is not more readily available? Farmed is good, but wild is better.

 

A word about French fries...Spindrift's chef, a stout, gregarious chap named Max Goodyear (who always wears the short peaked paper cap of a short order cook) has mastered the art of making really fine fries. They were cut long at about 3/8 of an inch thick and 3/8 of an inch wide and fried in fresh vegetable oil. Goodyear's fries were light and crispy. I ate every one and still wanted more.

 

The desserts at Spindrift, as my eleven-year-old nephew would say, were "cool". Again, many were home style, but in the case of one, absolutely revivalist. It was Spindrift's version of the old English pudding called "spotted dick". No doubt, early settlers to the Bonavista Bay area enjoyed the classic version (apparently invented in the early nineteenth century) containing suet and bits of dried fruit (currants, etc.). Spindrift's was a steamed creation bursting with partridgeberries (a.k.a. red berries or lingonberries), served with a syrupy rum sauce. It was marvelous.

 

Equally wonderful were two other desserts. My friend Jocelyn enjoyed her strawberry-rhubarb tart so much I actually had to risk a limb to steal a bite from her. She was right to hog it. It was very zesty, full of fruit, and not too sweet (a bonus for people who don't like really sweet desserts).

 

Chocolate cake can be awful if not made from scratch. Spindrift's scratch cake was beautiful. It was moist, rich with chocolate flavor, delicate, and melt-in-your-mouth good. It wasn't my birthday, but that cake made me think it was.

 

A meal for two at Spindrift-by-the-Sea, including tip and a $25 bottle of La Cour Pavillon cabernet sauvignon will set you back about $89. (It’s much cheaper without the wine!)

 

Best Points:

Great desserts, fast service, and cheerful, tastefully decorated surroundings.

 

Areas for Improvement:

With the exception of their superior French fries, their vegetables need help. They're overcooked and boring. The battered scallops were a tad overdone as well.

 

Rating Category:

Spindrift-by-the-Sea easily rates 7.5 points out of 10. Based on my recent visit, if you happen to be in the area, I recommend you give it a try.