Dining Out
Karl
Wells
Lucky's Restaurant
Ph. 368-5169
Remember that scene in The Rowdyman when Gordon
Pinsent's character successfully flirts with a waitress in a
Back in the early seventies Lucky's was located on the
west end of
Lucky's dining room is dressed up with several
planters but more interesting are a group of original oil paintings
- one or two quite lovely - by part-time artist Jim Au. For anyone interested,
the paintings are for sale. Apart from those touches the only element that
grabbed my attention was a warm, glowing propane fireplace. The effect would
have been better had the tables been dressed in cloth - as they used to be. Now
they have vinyl cafeteria-style covers for ease of cleaning.
Seated next to the fire on a chilly, damp spring
evening, introductory bowls of warming soup seemed appropriate. Guest had a
respectable bowl of standard wonton. I had a bowl of chicken yet ga mein -
essentially chicken noodle soup. If ever there was a low-fat dish
this was it. There was no sign of fat in the broth or in the julienne strips of
white chicken floating on top of a healthy portion of noodles. It’s the sort of
soup I usually love. However, it’s important that either the broth or the meat
have lots of flavour (preferably both). In this case there was an all round
deficit of flavour. The total absence of fat no doubt was a contributing
factor. Ever heard the line “fat equals flavour?”
There’s something to it.
Normally spring rolls would have been next on my menu.
However, a tasty treat called hom soo tay seemed much
more interesting to us. Triangular crispy wrappers containing minced pork were
served with a dark, thin dipping sauce. The crispy packets were plump and the
pork was rich and flavourful. The sauce had a wonderful, sweet, fruity taste. I
asked our server if she could tell me if it was plum I tasted. She answered
coyly and unsatisfactorily, that the owners would “never tell the ingredients
of any of the ‘secret’ recipes.”
I was tempted to ask, “Who’s the chef, Colonel
Sanders?” Hey, the sauce wasn’t THAT special. I’ve been in very swanky
restaurants where the chef would write out a recipe in longhand for you if it
made you happy.
Toi dop voy (I have no idea what that means) is a dish
I’ve had many times in many different restaurants. Lucky’s calls the
combination of shrimp, scallops, chicken, pork and vegetables by that name.
Other eateries have their own name for it. I asked that my order be served with
some of those addictive Chinese egg noodles. The whole affair scored points on
taste and texture.
Years ago I got my first taste of honey garlic spare
ribs at the Wing Ding Room of the old Skyline Motel. If memory serves, a thin,
elegant Chinese man - Mr. Wing Ding - who wore beautiful grey silk suits owned
the motel. Back in the sixties they had the best Chinese food in town. Mmmmm. I loved those ribs, those chewy nuggets of roasted
pork delivered on stubby, gristly bones. Of course, what made them completely
irresistible was the dark, thick, sticky sweet sauce covering them. Lucky’s
ribs tasted pretty much the same. I doubt the same cook made them but that’s
how similar I found them to be. They get better than a passing grade.
The best dish on our table that night was Cantonese
beefsteak. Thin slices of steak and onions arrived almost hopping on an
absolutely sizzling metal platter. Actually, I think the platter had been
overheated, causing the steak to smoke-up a little too much. However, the steak
was melt-in-your-mouth tender and delicious. Onions, steak and gravy all mixed
together and served with some plain steamed rice. What could be better?
I would have forced down some dessert but Lucky’s
doesn’t actually make any. Settling for just coffee is something I’ve been
doing a lot of lately. It’s probably just as well. To paraphrase Rhoda
Morgenstern, “I don't
know why I should even bother to eat dessert. I should just apply it directly
to my love handles.” However, being a restaurant reviewer I feel it is my duty
to tell you about desserts. But, as I’ve said before, only
when a restaurant can be bothered to make at least one of their own.
A final
note about Lucky’s. It is for sale. If you think you might have what it takes to own and
run your very own restaurant give them a call. They will entertain serious
offers.
Our meal for two, including four alcoholic beverages
and gratuity, cost $102.80.
The noise level at Lucky’s was very low and it was not
wheelchair accessible.
Best Points:
Cantonese beefsteak.
Areas for Improvement:
Improve the chicken noodle soup.
Ratings Category:
Lucky’s gets 7.5 points out of 10.
7 points = satisfactory, 7.5 points = good, 8 points =
very good, 9 points = excellent, 10 points = perfection