Fong’s Restaurant
143 Columbus Drive
Carbonear
The
night was slick and black and so was the paved road, its surface never more
deserving of the title “blacktop.” I was in Carbonear (onetime center of
Newfoundland commerce) with my friends, Tony and Bruce, on our way back to St.
John’s, trying to avoid hydroplaning on Carbonear’s Columbus Drive. Finding
ourselves in the middle of a projected 40 mm downpour, cold, wet, and hungry,
it wasn’t going to take much to get us to temporarily abort our journey in
favour of some rest and nourishment.
Then we saw a hot white sign framed by the coal-black night,
looming in the distance like a beautiful siren, luring us, not towards
treacherous shoals, but towards the most famous repository of Chinese cuisine
in Conception Bay North, Fong’s Motel and Restaurant. As if under a spell, we
turned in without thinking and with equal compliance found ourselves
simultaneously craving the same thing…chow mien.
Fong’s has been a Carbonear institution since its Water
Street days when the family patriarch started a restaurant there in 1959.
Today’s Columbus Drive business, established in 1982 and run by Art Fong,
includes a sixteen-room motel, restaurant, banquet room, and lounge. However,
the restaurant is the rock upon which Fong’s reputation was built, so, not
surprisingly, it is a region that seems to dominate the entire enterprise.
It’s a large room filled with colonial style furniture
(apart from six wall booths at one end).
Decorated for fall, the tables bore cloths featuring images
of harvest vegetables like corn and squash. The various prophylactic-like
layers placed between the tabletop and one’s food amused me. A thick, clear
plastic sheet, with paper placemats, covered the fall themed cloth. The
plastic, while making clean-up fast and easy, unfortunately, created a
cafeteria tone that I’m sure was not intended. We sat behind one of the
restaurant’s numerous planters, containing artificial greenery that had been
accented for fall by attractive red and gold leaves. For a Chinese restaurant,
Fong’s was about as un-Chinese looking as you can get.
Fong’s menu highlights a selection of various Cantonese and
Szechwan style dishes. Obviously, entrees required little thought; since our
prescient experience suggested chow mien. We ordered Cantonese chow mien that
sells for about ten bucks a bowl, a very large bowl. Next, I ordered some fried
squid. (A notation on the menu encouraged patrons to try, in particular, the
squid, as well as the mussels). Our server returned with word that squid was
scarce that day, so I went with the steamed mussels. They turned out to be
somewhat disappointing. They tasted fine, but were very small. I was looking
forward to those big, bright; brashly plump mussels that are such a joy to see
and to feast upon.
Thoroughly sensational are the only words I can use to
describe Fong’s spring rolls, at least for four of the five senses; maybe even
five if you count that delicate little crunching sound they make when you bite
into them. First of all, they are bigger than your average spring roll, lighter
in colour, and less greasy. They have the look of a food that was lovingly
prepared by hand and filled by someone with a generous spirit. When you bite
into them, a beautiful filling with texture comparable to that of cooked dates
issues forth. I’m not sure what they contained, but I was getting more than a
hint of gingery sweetness, as well as pork. They were the best spring rolls I
had ever eaten.
The won ton soup was a joy to eat as well. Visually
eye-catching, the bowl of golden chicken broth contained elegant, partially
submerged orbs wrapped loosely in ivory colored pasta. They gave an impression
of couture raiment, perhaps a flowing gown by Herrera. Some pieces of chopped scallion
had been added for extra decoration. The broth was rich with chicken flavour,
containing just enough fat to smooth it out. It made a wonderful host for the
luscious, slippery won tons filled with minced pork.
Fong’s Cantonese chow mien arrived in covered stainless
steel bowls. The lids were removed to reveal colourful stacks of pirate’s
treasure, gems of land and sea atop an ample portion of rich fried egg noodles.
Shrimps, as well as small strips of chicken and BBQ pork, slices of carrot,
celery, and water chestnuts, and florets of broccoli and cauliflower mingled in
a yummy sauce, flavoured with oyster and (possibly) soy sauce. All was cooked
to perfection and bursting with wonderful flavours and textures that finally
satisfied our cravings. Our serving bowls and plates returned to the kitchen so
clean it was hard to tell they hadn’t been put through an automatic washer.
This region of Newfoundland likes to celebrate its
connection to Peter Easton, the famous pirate, and Easton’s shipmate, Gilbert
Pike, who wed the beautiful Gaelic princess Sheilagh Ne Geira. I wondered if
the treasure Tony, Bruce, and myself had just been devouring compared to any
treasure Easton and company had plundered years ago.
My decision to end this wonderful meal with dessert may have
been the wrong one. I asked our server if any of their desserts were made
in-house. She informed me about the coconut cream and the apple pie. I asked
for some apple pie and a cup of tea. She seemed a bit bewildered when I refused
a scoop of ice cream with the pie, but rallied with, “Do you want it heated?”
to which I again said,”no.” I thought room temperature would be fine.
The pie was served Maytag cold. It even looked cold, and
maybe even lonely on the little white plate that carried it. I’m sure it was
made at Fong’s but it lacked the flavour of homemade. It tasted similar to many
of the mass produced pies you find at Sobey’s and Dominion. It was good, but
given the quality of the food that preceded it, a clear letdown. The cup of tea
that came with the chilly pie did not mitigate this. It was flat,
characterless, and boring. I’m not sure if it was a result of water temperature
or the brand of tea used, but they need to pay some attention to their tea,
especially in a province of tea drinkers.
Despite the lackluster finish, the Chinese dishes I had at
Fong’s were quite delectable and I recommend you give them a try the next time
you visit that region of ancient pirates and princesses.
My meal at Fong’s Restaurant, including a beer and tip, cost
$35.73.
Best Points:
The
Chinese food at Fong’s is as good as any I’ve had in Newfoundland.
Areas for Improvement:
Our
rural areas are known for great baking. How about some home-baked treats?
Ratings Category:
For
its competent preparation of Chinese dishes I am giving Fong’s Restaurant 8
points out of 10.