Dining Out
Karl
Wells
Atlantica
Beach House
Portugal Cove
Ph. 895-1251
Three men with a vision have come together in rural
Newfoundland and created a fine dining establishment of enormous potential.
It's called Atlantica and is located at the Beach House, a small hotel in
Portugal Cove. In my view, Atlantica has already earned a place amongst the
very best fine dining restaurants in Newfoundland. So, who are these men?
Corey Turpin, owner and general manager of Atlantica
(and Beach House) is determined to see the name Atlantica become synonymous
with “quality.” Turpin’s inn already has such a reputation, with its stylish
suites and breath-taking view of Conception Bay. There is nothing second-rate
about Turpin or his business.
At first Turpin saw Atlantica as a way of keeping his
inn guests in the Portugal Cove area longer. Why drive to downtown St. John’s
for an evening meal when fine dining is available just feet from your room? Now
Turpin believes Atlantica can attract diners from St. John’s looking for a
rural high-end dining experience.
“After all,” he said, “we’re only a ten minute drive
from St. John’s.”
Turpin was smart to situate his business where he did.
It’s literally on the edge of a bank overlooking Conception Bay. It has a
stunning dining room view of Bell Island, Bell Island Tickle and the busy ferry
boat. He was also smart in his choices of chef and restaurant manager.
Chef Jeremy Charles trained at Pius X Culinary
Institute in Montreal. After graduation Charles worked in a couple of Montreal
restaurants, followed by stints in Los Angeles and Chicago. Several months ago,
while staying at Beach House, Jeremy Charles asked Corey Turpin if he needed a
good chef for his new restaurant.
Charles has great hopes for Atlantica. He wants, as
much as possible, to use local ingredients in his dishes. Later this year he
will cook with fresh organic produce from Mike Rabinowitz’s nearby farm. Like
all serious chefs Jeremy Charles believes best results come from using the best
and freshest ingredients.
Jeremy Bonia, Atlantica’s restaurant manager and wine
steward, has several years of experience in the fine dining business. He has a
passionate interest in wine. In consultation with Jeremy Charles, Bonia has put
together an impressive wine list. Several of Atlantica’s offerings, especially
the reds, are unique selections you won’t find on many St. John’s wine lists.
Bonia is looking forward to developing Atlantica’s wine cellar as the business
grows. He also looks forward to working with Jeremy Charles on future wine and
food pairings.
There’s an elegance about Atlantica’s dining room,
nothing superfluous in its decoration. The room has a small number of simply
framed, uncomplicated prints. The walls are olive, supporting a white tray
ceiling. A trio of candles on each of the white clothed tables creates a warm
glow throughout the room during dinner.
Our meal began with an amuse bouche. It was a piece of
ravioli - slightly chewy at the edges - filled with herb flavoured mashed
potato. The ravioli sat atop a small amount of buttery greens, a cut of fresh
asparagus and yellow bean. The plate was decorated with a drizzle of almost
neutral olive oil and sweet balsamic reduction. A tiny amount of tomato
concasse and grated Parmesan capped the ravioli. The flavours were subtle; all
complimented one another. It was a quiet but pleasant prelude to our meal.
Atlantica’s crispy panko brandade of Newfoundland salt
cod and Yukon potato sounded like one of the more interesting appetizers on
offer. However, don’t order it expecting classic brandade de morue. The classic
dish is almost entirely made from salt cod, with the addition of olive oil and
milk. Atlantica’s version was more croquette potato than true brandade. It was
flavoured with just a small amount of cod. The garlic aioli spooned over top
gave the potato heavy dish some needed punch.
Atlantica’s oven roasted pork tenderloin was spiced
with a coating of cinnamon. Since discovering Indian food many years ago I’ve
had a keen taste for meats flavoured with high profile spices. I very much
enjoyed the cinnamon in combination with the tender and juicy tenderloin.
Jeremy Charles enjoys working with vegetables and it
shows. The pork slices had been fanned out on a bed of yummy roasted
vegetables. Root vegetables like potato were combined with fennel onion
compote, spinach and an orange-spiced port reduction. The result was delicious.
French fries cooked in duck fat are a trendy treat in
some American and European restaurants these days.
It’s a pleasure I’ve yet to experience but it’s hard
to believe anything could taste better than “duck” cooked in duck fat.
Atlantica’s duck confit - duck cooked in its own fat - strengthened my
feelings. The duck leg was crispy, succulent and flavourful. Jeremy Charles
dish was a superb effort.
A lemon curd tart that could not possibly have been
improved upon ended my meal at Atlantica. The pastry base was beautifully
fresh, buttery and light. The lemon curd filling tasted of nothing but fresh
lemons sweetened with sugar. A fresh, lightly browned meringue decorated with
strands of candied lemon peel covered the filling. In sum, Atlantica’s lemon
curd tart was perfect.
I heartily welcome the arrival of Atlantica, yet
another high quality dining establishment in the St. John’s area. Atlantica is
open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Our meal for two at Atlantica - including a $42 bottle
of wine, glass of port and gratuity - cost approximately $177.
The noise level at Atlantica was low and it was
wheelchair accessible.
Best Points:
Food, service, atmosphere.
Areas for Improvement:
A little more cod in the brandade.
Ratings Category:
Atlantica gets 9 points out of 10.
7 points = satisfactory, 7.5 points = good, 8 points = very good, 9 points = excellent, 10 points = perfection