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The
Rant
The Chefs Ball, 2006
Gastronomy, Glitz and Drum Lines
"Those who have a profound indifference to the pleasures of the table are generally gloomy, charmless and unamiable." - Lucien Tendret
Four hundred people dressed in their best bib and tucker fell silent Saturday night as a dozen young people carrying drums filed into the large ballroom at the Holiday Inn. It was time for dessert at the annual Chefs Ball. Suddenly the kitchen doors swung open and a line of white clad cooks began to march around the room, each holding high a platter containing an enormous baked Alaska encased in billows of fresh meringue. Simultaneously the drummers began drumming an infectious African style beat and diners began waving and twirling their napkins of blue or white in the air. Seven former “Chefs-of-the-Year” came forward and as each Alaska bearer lowered his or her dessert before the elite chefs, one would pour flaming rum over it, turning it into a glowing edible torch. It was a wonderful moment, made even more enjoyable by the perfect performance of the Norris Music-Mt. Pearl Drum Line.
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Chef Gerry Crewe |
The most anticipated portion of the festivities, the presentation of awards, followed that piece of theatre. A drum roll might have been appropriate as Chef Gordon Chaulker announced the name of the 2006 Chef-of-the-Year. For the second year in a row the St. John’s branch of the Canadian Culinary Federation chose Chef Gerry Crewe. All in attendance stood and applauded his win. It was a sweet denouement for a career spanning 34 years as an instructor in culinary arts at the College of the North Atlantic. Chef Crewe is scheduled to retire this year.
Other award highlights included Chef Roary MacPherson’s win as Culinarian-of-the-Year. Chef MacPherson is Executive Chef at The Fairmont St. John’s and has just finished a successful year as manager of the award winning Junior Culinary Team. Associate Member-of-the-Year was Terra Nova Foods/Sani-Pro, a longtime food and restaurant supply business in St. John’s. Representatives, Dave Moreash and Danny Constantine accepted on behalf of the company.
Student awards went to Cindy Crane of the College of the North Atlantic for achievement in marine cooking, Mary Alice Gould for student achievement in entry level cooking at the College of the North Atlantic and Nathan Crewe for entry level cooking at Academy Canada.
The 5-course dinner was a triumph, especially considering the amount of food that had to be prepared. Food that was supposed to arrive cold was cold and food that was meant to be hot was hot. It was also an event where outstanding food presentation was expected and it was.
After cocktails diners were lead into the ballroom for the start of the meal. It began with a chilled fresh fruit crepe with honey and cranberry dressing. A neatly folded crepe, topped with a quenelle of cream cheese dressed with citrus rind and flanked by a section of grapefruit and orange, sat on a mixture of diced fruit. Honey and cranberry sauce had been spooned onto the plate. Once broken, the crepe revealed a medley of chopped fruit and more cream cheese. It was a marvelous combination of textures and flavours, both tart and sweet.
Wild mushroom soup en croute followed. Each soup bowl was sealed with puff pastry. Underneath the round golden brown crust, a pool of piping hot mushroom broth, laced with tiny bits of mushroom gave off a woodsy scent. The soup was thin but at the same time robust because of the intensity of its earthy flavours.
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Salmon with Herb Crust |
The herb crusted fillet of salmon on mesclun with beet and apple chutney was truly delicious. A piece of golden salmon coated with a green, peppery crust of various herbs contrasted beautifully with the sweet beetroot and apple chutney. The chutney brought out the complex flavours of the salmon, adding depth and dimension to the dish.
Beef rouladen is a German dish that features pieces of round steak that have been pounded out and stuffed with dill pickle, bacon and onions. They are rolled-up, browned and braised in liquid - from which a rich, deep gravy is made. This entrée was full of character and taste. It was accompanied by roasted baby red potatoes, wilted spinach and a purse made from phyllo pastry that was filled with cooked julienne root vegetables.
The meal ended with the baked Alaska. Everyone received individual meringue coated Alaskas. The beautiful plate presentation featured the white Alaska - with a few scorch marks - made to look like a large bloom with petals of red, made from what tasted like coloured tuile paste, slipped beneath. A dollop of cubed fruit in strawberry sauce posed alongside, as well as a slice of mousse terrine in layers of white, brown and pink. The mousse was a combination of vanilla, chocolate and raspberry flavours. The Alaska itself featured chocolate cake surrounding a portion of nutty ice cream, probably pistachio. Most in attendance barely had room for it because their bellies were so full. However, it was a fitting conclusion to wonderful feast.
Many in attendance said the event was even better than last year and well worth the $150 per couple charged. I agreed, having emceed the event in 2005 as well. All involved should feel proud of the accomplishment, especially the dozens of young students from the culinary arts programs at the College of the North Atlantic and Academy Canada who, under the supervision of their instructors, actually cooked the meals. If I could bring in that drum line here I would but in the meantime, congratulations everybody!
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